Pisces Bar & Seafare, the new seafood restaurant in Wynn Las Vegas, naturally draws inspiration from shipping and sea and the nautical moment. But the fishermen nautical moments are not one of anchors and breton beaches, of nets and glass balls and pools of sand populated by faux crabs and sea bows.
This Nautical moment is more like life aboard a luxury boat.
Which means the abundance of that briny deep on the plate, just one day from the sea. Resplendent design, everything from hand -blown fixtures to chairs dressed in fish leather to monumental urns painted with extra people, pieces that took five men to lift in place.
Plus knives etched with the fish logo, for this Nautical moment extends from beam to bow to quay, with nothing too small (or too big) to think about.
“How we work in this restaurant is detail and vision,” said CEO Martin Heierling. “The focus is on being uncompromising.”
Seafood height points
Fish arrive in the fishermen, via a European fishmonger, from boats working across the Mediterranean and nearby water: outside Morocco, Spain, Italy, Greece and more. The prisoners extend from Umbrina (European drum) to Branzino, from Langoustines to Bluefin Tuna to Orata, known in English as a sea fire or gilded bras.
“The fish is so fresh,” said Heierling, whose career includes opening the old Sensi at Bellagio and a sous chef in New York City under the legendary Gray Kunz at Lapinasse, one of the finest restaurants ever to open in the US
Heierling Tor Age Orata for three days, grills it in a basket (for better handling and cooking) and serves it forward, with Harissa and a windfield of tzatziki, maybe.
Octopus, with a sore chew, gets a lemon brum from syrete icon, a Greek olive oil made of immature organic fruit and fresh lemons. Red Pepper Sherry Spuma and Santorini Fava Bean Purée give a silky salty blanket.
“It’s a Spanish octopus but with Greek accents,” Heierling said.
For ceviche in the style of Cadiz, the coastal Spanish city near the western entrance to the Mediterranean, the sea base is cured in lemon and a jab of lime shells. Ceviche urges chili, roasted yellow pepper sauce and, for a hit by umami, bonito dashi powder, called her dashi. A whimsical fish bone Tuile tops ceviche.
Design details
The fishermen are looking at Lake of Dreams at Wynn, in the former restaurant on the lake, which has been completely transformed by Todd-Avery Lenahan, the president and the head of creative director of Wynn Design and Development.
Fabric from Thailand mantles a wall. Appliquéd fish embroidered in India swims along the wall past Golden Convex Mirrors. The largest mirror perfectly frames the reflection of the waterfall entering the lake; It’s no coincidence. Another wall has a stylized topographic map of the seabed.
Structural ceiling beams remain from Lakeside. They have been painted to resemble wood and set up with metal bolts, which adds the luxurious yacht feeling.
Glass orbs from Italy, the shape and color of each varying slightly, compose the chandeliers. Below is floor tiled with fish mosaic. The injection has glitter to spark at night.
A loaf of pane Sfogliato-Italian Pull-Apart bread-followed by a pool of the lemony olive oil or htipiti red pepper dip or creamy manouriost from northern Greece.
“It’s a laminated leaven that tastes like a croissant,” Heierling said about limp. “It took a month’s value for R&D to produce. These are the beautiful resources, the capacities we have internally.”
Caviar Crown’s Jamón íberico Croquetas bursting with béchamel – Salt! custard! – Made of the pig’s trim. For a sneak of lobster spaghettini comes the pasta from one of the oldest past
Back to the fish leather upholstery. The technology – tanning fish leather, including removing scales, to create a fabric – goes back thousands of years among coastal people. Today, leather is used from the fishing industry that would otherwise be wasted. The removed scales leave behind pockets that create texture temptation. You can’t help run your hands.
And those urns? They were designed by Melanie Sherman, a Kansas City, Missouri, ceramicist and porcelain artist ordered by Lenahan. To make the largest urns, Sherman had to build a special 9-foot oven.
Back on land
The menu on Pisces travels beyond the sea.
Say a manufacturer in Italy. The other pasta is made internally with the help of an inheritance welding flour, also from Italy. For each kilo of flour, 50 egg yolks are used, Heierling said.
A splash of intense salt Aleppo salt trips alongside a 10-ounce wagyu New York Stiff beef massaged with brown sugar porcini rub. “I always like to serve salt with steak,” Heierling said. “You serve it on the plate so you can just dip it.”
Paella in Valencia-style sports the right soccarat, the sharp rice layer formed on the bottom of the paella pane. “We scratch that tables. It’s always made for two,” Heierling said.
Sweet finish
Jennifer Yee, Wynn’s executive pastry chef, also helps to occupy the fish boat, with what Heierling called “soulful desserts with sophistication.” Like table oil cake with lemon pulp or frozen Greek yogurt with hot baklava donuts or a chocolate cake with feuilletin -crunch served on top of a fish “skeleton”, too little confection of tromen l’oeil.
Book your Pisces passage at wynnlasvegas.com/dining. The maiden travel departs Saturday.
Contact Johnathan L. Wright at jwright@ theplayerlounge.com. Follow @jlwtaste on Instagram.
